I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: no watchmaker makes hi-tech look as classy as De Bethune. Allow me to introduce you to the De Bethune DB28T in Black Zirconium, released during Baselworld 2013.
While the DB28T is not exactly a new model, this is the first time a black zirconium case has been used for the tourbillon version of the iconic DB28. The polished black 42.6mm case uses De Bethune’s spring-loaded skeleton lugs for a snug fit on just about any wrist.
With similar aesthetics to the DBS, De Bethune’s first “open” watch, the DB28T houses an inverted movement where the barrels and bridge are visible on the dial side of the watch. A floating silvered chapter ring marks the minutes, while the black bezel uses rounded polished silver markers for the hours. The hands are a futuristic take on the classical Breguet “pomme” hands, skeletonized in polished steel.
The tourbillon cage is visible through an aperture at 6 o’clock. What’s noteworthy is that is one of a few high-beat tourbillons; perhaps the only tourbillon beating at 36’000 bph. Instead of the more common 60 seconds, the DB28T’s tourbillon makes a full rotation every 30 seconds.
The tourbillon of the DB 2019 movement is made of a silicon and titanium cage, a silicon balance spring and escape wheel, and a blued titanium bridge. The entire tourbillon weighs a mind-boggling 0.18 grams.
Manually wound via the crown at 12 o ‘clock, the DB2019 delivers a power reserve of 120 hours (5 days) thanks to the self-regulating twin barrels. The sapphire case back (which, in the midst of my awe and wonder, I completely forgot to photograph) displays the power reserve on the inverted bottom plate of the movement.