When I hear the name Hermès, I think of Birkin handbags and porcelain ashtrays (not to mention those “H” belt buckles us guys love so much). Watches certainly don’t come to mind. Yet for the past few years, the Parisian brand has taken serious strides in becoming far more than just a luxury fashion brand that happens to make watches.

One could say that Hermès’ foray into the realm of haute horlogerie began with the “Cape Cod Grandes Heures”, a watch that boasted a more poetic sort of complication rather than being functional. Then there’s the more recent “Arceau Le Temps Suspendu”, a playful and poetic way of indicating the time and cherishing those special moments. And while the Dressage l’Heure Masquée may not be as philosophical as its poetic predecessors, it is every bit as engaging and interactive.

The concept is pretty straightforward yet totally original: the hour hand is hidden or “masked” (hence the name) underneath the minute hand, revealing itself only when the wearer asks for it by pressing the pusher integrated in the crown. The same goes for the second time-zone indication at 6 o’clock, hidden behind a “GMT” disk blocking the aperture. The pusher at 9 o’clock is used to advance the second time-zone in whole hour increments.

The Dressage case is cushion-shaped and void of any sharp angles; a visual and tactile treat. In either stainless steel or 5N rose gold, the case measures 40.5 x 38.4 mm and only 6.4mm in thickness, which is quite an achievement when you consider the modular “stacked” movement. In fact, the Heure Masquée is even slimmer than the brand’s chronograph models from the same line.

The automatic movement is based on the Vaucher H1925 chronograph developed in collaboration with Hermès, who actually co-own the Fleurier-based movement manufacturer. Needless to say, several developments and innovations were required to make l’Heure Masquée a reality, and Hermès have even filed a patent for the design.

Easy to wear and a lot of fun to manipulate, The Hermes Dressage l’Heure Masquée is limited to 1’000 pieces in steel with a price tag of $19,500, while the the rose gold version is limited to 500 pieces and priced at $44,000.

More information on www.hermes.com