Of all the Hublot watches out there, I decided to give a 42mm model a test-drive, the Classic Fusion Ultra-Thin Skeleton 42mm.

The Classic Fusion line is undoubtedly Hublot’s most versatile offering, with enough understated retro coolness to appeal to more conservative tastes yet the kind of “fusion” us Hublot lovers are looking for.

Back in 2012, Hublot launched the Classic Fusion Ultra-Thin Skeleton, which marked a new direction for the line and arguably even the brand. While the Big Bangs and King Powers seemed to get larger and louder, the Skeleton was all about refinement with an ultra-thin movement and case.

The Ultra-Thin Skeleton also marked the first time Hublot had introduced a higher end non-tourbillon movement to the Classic Fusion line, using an exclusive caliber made in collaboration with La Joux Perret. At 2.90mm thick, it was also the thinnest movement Hublot had ever used.

So why did I choose the 42mm version to review? For one thing, I feel that Hublot’s smaller variants are often overlooked, and yet certain collectors I know always complain that Hublot watches are way too big. At the same time, most of the 41mm Big Bang models (versus the staple 44mm) have been oriented more towards the fairer sex, with the Tutti Fruttis and whatnot. With the Classic Fusion line however, Hublot are clearly trying to attract customers who prefer more classically proportioned watches and perhaps even pre-Biver clientele. Especially as an ultra-thin skeleton, I thought it would be interesting to see how the watch wore as a dressier Hublot alternative, especially after having worn a 44mm Big Bang for so long.

At first, I did find it a bit on the smallish side. Compared to some of my vintage watches it was still much larger, but I guess strapping on a Hublot you simply aren’t expecting that downplayed look. I liked it.

I immediately found the 42mm case proportionally much better suited to the slim profile of the watch. I liked that it was thin enough slip under a cuff, with the open-worked movement and dial (because it’s not a skeleton per se) providing the “pop” you’d expect from a Hublot.

The brushed and polished Titanium case bears a closer resemblance to Hublot’s offerings from the ‘80’s and ‘90’s than the Big Bangs and King Powers. No Kevlar side inserts here, just smooth, rounded and polished metal. The satin-brushed surfaces and polished screws provide a nice distraction as they seemingly transform under different lighting.

The glass dial produces a sort of optical illusion as the applied faceted hour markers appear to float on top of the open-worked movement. Speaking of which, the movement is finished in a lighter ruthenium tone than it’s blacker 45mm equivalent. Also unlike the 45mm version, you won’t find any spacers to fill up the large aperture as the movement takes up all the open space right to the edges of the inner case.

One criticism I do have is that I found the crown a bit too small. It wasn’t the easiest to manipulate while worn, but than again being an ultra-thin watch, one can’t expect to wind it (90 hours worth of power reserve) or set the time without taking it off the wrist.

I would have also liked to see some manual finishing on the movement liked chamfered and polished edges, but given that this watch costs around as much as a steel or ceramic Big Bang, I guess I shouldn’t complain.

Overall I do find this an excellent offering from Hublot. It’s smarter, dressier and mechanically more sophisticated. It’s a watch that you can buy with a peace of mind in knowing that it will still look and wear great in years to come.

The 42mm Classic Fusion Ultra-Thin Skeleton in Titanium (545.NX.0170.LR) comes with a price tag of around $16’400 USD.

More information on www.hublot.com